High Atlas Divide - bikepacking challenge in Morocco

442 km

13 days

13776 m

80% offroad

Morocco, the most north-westerly country in Africa, not only offers desert and coast, but also fascinating mountain landscapes in the High Atlas. The mountain range, which reaches its highest point with Mount Jebel Toubkal (4197m), is characterized by deeply cut valleys, rocky passes and barren plateaus. Unlike the modern and Arab flatlands, the Berbers live here, a mountain people with their own writing, language and culture. When bikepacking in the High Atlas, you often have the feeling that you have not only changed the country, but also the time. Many of the small mountain villages are now accessible over rough dirt tracks from the valleys, but the pass crossings in between are still mule tracks that often will force you off the bike and into a couple of hours of hike a-bikes. There may still be snow in the higher elevations by the end of April. Although you will be riding along two of the highest mountains in the Atlas, the Jebel Toubkal and the M'Goun, you will be off the beaten track and experience a very original and hospitable Morocco, without the notorious rip off and aggressive kids of the touristy areas. During the High Atlas Divide you cross the high Atlas four times and ride ten passes.

Route / Terrain

Marrakesh, the city at the foot of the Atlas is served by many airlines and is an ideal starting point for the High Atlas Divide. There are several modern bus companies who allow the transport of bikes. Starting point of the route is Tabant in the east. If you have less time, Taddart suits as an entry or exit point. All buses from Marrakech to Ouarzazate stop there for lunch. The track ends in Asni, 50km south of Marrakesh. The current government of Morocco is improving roads and is investing millions in the development of small mountain villages. The newly built dirt tracks are often simply dredged in the steep slopes with rough ground and the one or the other landslide in between. Often extremely steep, they are used by the Berbers mostly on foot or as a mule track. When you reach the farthest village in the valley, the so called road often ends and continues as a narrow mule track over the pass to the next valley. Neither ascent nor descent are usually completely ridable. It has proven helpful to unscrew the pedals to make it easier to push the bike on the partially narrow and exposed paths. On the High Atlas Divide you cross several passes over 3000m, mostly on dirt roads or single track. In between, a few paved sections in the main valleys are awaiting you, but they have only little traffic. The leg between Tizi n Tichka pass and Jebel Toubkal is the hardest part with a few hefty hike-a-bike sections. We recommend the direction from east to west. In particular, the slope traverse out of the valley to the village of Ouigrene is only feasible if there is no snow!

Infrastructure / Logistics

The High Atlas has long been a well-known trekking region, which has led to the construction of simple "Gite d'étapes". Almost in any small and isolated Berber village there is a simple guest house where you can eat (national dish: Tajine) and sleep. The "guardian" usually speaks French. Price negotiations are part of the culture and are expected. If there is no official accommodation, ask at the mosque or a villager. It is not absolutely necessary to bring camping gear with you if you plan your overnight stays well. But remember that you are in high mountains and sometimes you can get stuck. Therefor we recommend a tarp and a sleeping bag as minimal equipment. The latter also helps against dirty bedding in the „gites“. Wild camping is easy in the High Atlas. Stores are available in the form of small shops in the main valleys. The offer is rather sparse, but you will find pasta, tomato concentrate, peanuts and dates in every little shop. You need storage space for a maximum of two days of food. The southern side of the Atlas is dry. Nevertheless, you will always find enough water - at least in spring. On the north side, there is often too much rather than too little water. A form of water treatment is recommended (goat herds). Make sure to bring enough cash! ATMs are only available in Marrakesh and Ourzazate (and maybe Demnate) and you have to pay everywhere in local currency (dirham)! If you bring Euros or Dollars, you will get a favorable exchange rate at the airport. Keep the receipts of exchange or from ATM, otherwise you can not change back any remaining Dirhams at the end of your trip!

Difficulty

The eastern part of the High Atlas Divide through the Tessout valley and around Mount M'Goun we rode a few years ago with lightly packed touring bicycles. The central part starting at Tizi n Tichka pass and on to Jebel Toubkal is clearly demanding bikepacking terrain. Pack as light as you can, take a backpack so you can carry your luggage on your back during the hike a-bikes. Although you ride through remote mountain regions, you'll hardly ever be alone for a long time. Shepherds drive their goat herds far into the mountains and set up some of their summer camps on the plateaus. Most Berbers speak only  little or no French, and certainly no English. Be prepared for sign language. The High Atlas Divide is physically challenging, but logistically easy thanks to the good trekking infrastructure. And what it is all above: Absolutely unique and unforgettable!

 

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